If you are going “cold turkey” switching to cleaning products that are better for the environment, rather than trashing your current products, give them away.  It doesn’t do any good to put them in the landfill, they’ll still harm the environment.  Consider donating them to a non-profit or even giving them to friends or family who haven’t yet been pursuaded to make the change.

I’ve recently switched to all stainless steel and enamel covered cast iron pots and pans and have found that cleaning stainless steel can be a challenge without scratching.  I happened to be reading the label on my earth friendly Bon Ami Cleanser and found that it works well for pots and pans.  After a quick try I found how amazing it is!  I use my normal washing sponge and sprinkle on Bon Ami and it scrubs away – so gently that it doesn’t leave any scratch marks!  It is also great for burnt bits on cookie sheets!

If you read my post yesterday about the Shark Steam Cleaner you’ll know how much I LOVE it!  This mop is just as fabulous.  It too comes with several attachments which you can somewhat see on the box pictured above.  Included you’ll find a rectangular shaped head and a triangular shaped head.  There is one triangular microfiber cover, two rectangular microfiber covers and one rectangular microfiber duster which can all be tossed in the washer without fabric softener.  The long handle pumps the steam as you push and pull the mop so you get a continuous stream of steam.  It is truly amazing how well it cleaned both my wood and tile floors without any cleaning products!  I am very cautious as to how I clean my floors.  I’ve heard from a friend’s veteranarian that the solution in Swiffer Wet Jets have made pets very sick and even killed them.  I guess if they get it on the pads of their feet and then lick them it can be posinous.  Up until now I use Method’s mop and solution (which I still have some to use up) but I like this steam mop so much better as I don’t need to use any products at all so it not only makes my floors sparkle but it is safe for Winston (my furry friend) and is super safe for the environment!  I purchased mine at Bed Bath and Beyond for about $115 but it was even cheaper with my 20% off coupon!

Cleaning with non-toxic, bio-degradable, natural products is the ONLY way to go – UNLESS you clean with steam!  I recently purchased the Shark Steam Cleaner and am LOVING it!  No cleaning solutions are necessary as the power of steam does it all.  I purchased this device for small areas that are difficult to scrub and it really does the job.  I use it in the shower to blast the grout, in between the glass shower doors, corners and crevices of the sink and faucet…really any small space.  There are a few attachments to assist – a brush end, a sponge end, etc.  I found the sponge to be a little difficult to work with on my tile shower but maybe on a smoother surface such as my counter tops  it will be better.  The little brush end was great to scrub the soap scum while steaming but I could easily see the brush getting worn out rather quickly.  That being said, I’m sure that you can either purchase a replacement or better yet, just use the regular pointed end to blast the steam and use your own scrubbie to remove the grime.  You do have to exert a little effort to scrub the old grime but I seem to think that now that I’ve finally gotten the grime I’ve been unable to get with a regular scrubbie and Bon Ami that going forward it’ll be much easier as there won’t be so much build up.  It also works great for windows and mirrors – they even include a microfiber cloth to wipe them down for a streak free shine!  The cord is super long so you can plug it in and very easily navigate around a large room without have to un-plug and re-plug.  I did find myself refilling it a few times before the job was done, but again, there was a lot of built up grime that I hadn’t been able to tackle so I’m assuming next time it’ll take less time and I won’t need to keep stopping to refill the steam.  To get the steam out you have to squeeze the handle several times to get it going, at first I wasn’t squeezing enough but once I realized I should continue squeezing I saw much better results with the amount of steam and the strength of the pressure.  It was about $50 at Bed Bath and Beyond and even cheaper with one of their 20% off coupons.  I’m assuming this will last for years and that being said, the price is well worth it as it’ll save on cleaning supplies and will be less of a burden on the environment.

Here are some random yet brilliant uses for vinegar and baking soda…

White Vinegar:
Make sure to use good quality white vinegar, some low cost brands are made with petroleum which is a hazardous chemical. Heinz is a good brand making their white vinegar from grain and water.
*Fruit & Veggie wash – removes pesticides. Mix water and white vinegar in a 3:1 ratio in a spray bottle. Spray produce and rinse with water.
*Remove coffee stains on mugs and coffee pots by wiping white vinegar over spots. Rinse clean.
*Remove labels or sticky glue residue – just wipe with vinegar
*Grind vinegar ice cubes in your garbage disposal to deodorize and sharpen blades.
*Pour vinegar into your toilet bowl, let sit for 10 minutes and flush to remove stains and bacteria.
*Boil vinegar and pour down clogged drains to unstop pipes.

Baking Soda:
*Sprinkle a little bit of baking soda on your carpets, let sit for 10 minutes and vacuum.  It will deodorize and absorb odors.
*Place an open box of baking soda in your refrigerator and freezer to deodorize.   Replace every 3 months.
*Remove scuff marks on linoleum or tile by wiping a damp sponge dipped in baking soda over the spots.
*Give old sponges a second chance by soaking overnight in baking soda and water.
*It wipes away crayon, pencil or scuff marks from your walls – rub gently over spots with a rag.

My favorite all purpose pre-made scrubber is Bon Ami.  It has been around since 1886 because it works so well and even better, it is non-toxic and biodegradable!  It is great for many surfaces…I use it in the bathroom and kitchen on tile, sinks, counters and even sometimes on pots and pans to scrub away burnt-on food.  It retails for just over $1 – well worth it!

From WholeLiving.com

For basic nontoxic stain removal, mix up a little grandmother knowledge and apply it liberally.
The principles behind creating stain removers — or nearly all household cleaners — are relatively simple. Some kinds of stains respond to alkaline minerals such as borax and soap, others to acids like vinegars.

There is no reason to use anything toxic; with a few natural ingredients, you can solve even the toughest problems.

Stain Solutions
These techniques are safe on most fabrics, but do not use alkaline materials (borax or soap) on wool or silk; these fabrics only tolerate acids like vinegar or lemon juice. Spot-test first to make sure the remedy is compatible with the dyes. These basic minerals and acids need time to work their magic; most treatments should be left on the stains for at least half an hour, in some cases longer. After treating the fabric, launder as appropriate.

Stain: Berries
Natural Solution: White vinegar or lemon juice; washing soda
Instructions: Soak stains in white vinegar or lemon juice for one hour; rinse. If there is some remaining stain, dampen the area with water, make a paste of equal parts washing soda and water, and rub it in gently.

Stain: Blood
Natural Solution: Cold water; hydrogen peroxide; corn starch
Instructions: Soak in cold water. For stubborn stains, soak in hydrogen peroxide (a natural bleach; spot-test to make sure it won’t affect the fabric). Or use a paste of equal parts corn starch and cold water.

Stain: Chocolate
Natural Solution: Vegetable-based detergent or soap; digestive enzymes
Instructions: Mix 1 teaspoon liquid soap or detergent with 1 cup of water, and soak the stained area. To remove the dairy component, buy digestive-enzyme tablets at a natural-foods store, grind up three or four tablets, and add equal parts water to make a damp paste. Gently rub the solution into the stain. Leave for at least one hour.

Stain: Coffee and Tea
Natural Solution: White vinegar or lemon juice; cream of tartar
Instructions: Soak the stain in straight white vinegar or lemon juice for one hour. If there was milk in the tea or coffee, follow directions for removing dairy protein under “Chocolate.” Alternatively, clean with a paste made of cream of tartar and water.

Stain: Egg
Natural Solution: Cold water; digestive enzymes
Instructions: Soak the garment in cold water. If some egg remains, follow directions for using enzymes under “Chocolate.”

Stain: Grass
Natural Solution: White vinegar
Instructions: Soak the area in white vinegar for one hour. Alternatively, use an enzyme paste (see “Chocolate.”

Stain: Grease
Natural Solution: Vegetable-based detergent or soap; washing soda
Instructions: Sometimes just blotting the stain with detergent is all you need. If the stain remains, make a paste of equal parts washing soda and water and gently rub it in. Leave for at least one hour.

Stain: Gum
Natural Solution: Ice
Instructions: Freeze with a wrapped ice cube, then peel off the frozen gum.

Stain: Ink
Natural Solution: White vinegar; milk
Instructions: Soak in milk or white vinegar.

Stain: Paint
Natural Solution: Citrus solvent
Instructions: Soak the area in citrus solvent for 10 minutes.

Stain: Perspiration
Natural Solution: Shampoo
Instructions: Saturate the area with shampoo, then launder as usual. If the perspiration stains remain, use an enzyme paste (see “Chocolate.”)

Stain: Tomato Sauce
Natural Solution: White vinegar; washing soda; borax
Instructions: Soak in white vinegar. Alternatively, make a paste of equal parts washing soda or borax and water and rub in gently.

Stain: Wax
Natural Solution: Hot iron
Instructions: Place a clean cotton rag over the wax and iron, making sure not to overheat the fabric. Blot the melted wax with an absorbent rag as you go to remove the residue.

Stain: Wine
Natural Solution: Boiling water; club soda
Instructions: Stretch the fabric over a bowl, then pour boiling water from a height of two to three feet. Or rinse the stain with club soda.

More Natural Stain Fighters
Lemon Juice: A natural bleach, acidic lemon juice help with alkaline stains such as grass, tarnish, and minerals.
Borax: This alkaline mineral is good for acid and protein stains.
Corn Starch: Made from corn, corn starch is very absorbent. Works well on protein stains. Diluted and sprayed on clothes, it’s a natural starch.
Vegetable-Based Soap: Better for the environment than petroleum-based detergents, vegetable soaps help with greasy stains. Castile soap, made primarily from olive oil, may be the easiest to find.
Cream of Tartar: A natural by-product of winemaking, cream of tartar is good for stains like tea or coffee. Generally color-safe.
Citrus Solvent: A less-toxic alternative to solvents like acetone, citrus solvent is available online or at some hardware stores. It’s used for paint, rust, and nail polish.
Club Soda: The water and bubbles help lift acidic stains like wine and berries.

Text by Annie B. Bond

From WholeLiving.com; Text by Kristen Pakonis

When it comes to cleaning house, it’s tempting to enlist off-the-shelf products with ingredients like bleach and ammonia. They get the job done-but not without also doing a number on your eyes, airways, and, with enough exposure, your nervous system. Ironically, these cleaners also pollute: Disinfectants and other chemicals washing down drains now contaminate more than two-thirds of U.S. streams. Largely because of these same products, our indoor air can be up to five times more polluted than the air outside. But you don’t have to sacrifice health for a clean home. Nontoxic DIY cleaners deliver considerable power at minimal cost. “Making your own is easy,” says Annie Bond, author of “Better Basics for the Home.” “All you need is a little trust in yourself and six ingredients.” We worked with Bond to gather these easy, essential recipes, so you can start green cleaning today.

What You’ll Need
Baking soda (aka sodium bicarbonate) A deodorizer and gentle scrub; softens hard water, removes acidic stains, and polishes shiny surfaces like stainless steel without scratching.

Distilled white vinegar A deodorizer, disinfectant, mild acid, and preservative; breaks up dirt, grease, mineral deposits, mold, and soap scum.

Essential oils Aromatic plant oils; some, including eucalyptus, lavender, and tea tree, are natural disinfectants and anti-fungals. Pure essential oils can irritate eyes and skin upon contact, so handle carefully. Pregnant women should consult a health-care practitioner before using. Available from mountainroseherbs.com and natural foods stores.

Lemon A deodorizer, stain remover, and grease cutter; acts as a mild bleach when exposed to sunlight.

Olive oil A natural oil that helps to nourish and polish wood.

Plant-based liquid soap Gentle soap made with oils such as olive (“Castile soap”), palm, and coconut, rather than petroleum derivatives or animal fat. Available from natural foods stores and drbronner.com.

All-Purpose Scrub
1/2 cup baking soda
Plant-based liquid soap
1/2 of a lemon
 

Pour baking soda into a bowl. Add just enough liquid soap to make a creamy paste. Spread mixture on the flat side of lemon and scrub. The lemon acts as a sponge and leaves a natural citrus scent. Use a damp rag or sponge to wipe away any residue. You’ll find the paste will stay moist for a few hours.

Helpful Hint To save leftover scrub, add in a few drops of vegetable glycerin (a thick, clear syrup derived from plant oils, available from mountainroseherbs.com) and seal in a glass jar.

Window Cleaner
1/2 teaspoon Castile or plant-based liquid soap
3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar (other recipes call fro ¼ Cup – so use your desired amount)
2 cups water

Pour all ingredients into a spray bottle and shake. Spray onto window and wipe clean with newspaper or a 100 percent cotton cloth.

Helpful Hint The liquid soap included in this recipe helps remove any streak-causing wax left on the window from commercial cleaners used in the past. You can eliminate the soap after a few washings. Safety note: Always be careful to label containers of homemade cleaners intended for storage and keep them well out of the reach of children.

Floor Cleaner
1/8 cup plant-based liquid soap
1/8 cup distilled white vinegar
1 gallon water
10 drops essential oil (scent of your choice)

Mix all ingredients in a bucket and mop as usual.

Helpful Hint For ceramic and stone floors, eliminate soap (which leaves a film) and use 1/4 cup of vinegar with 1 gallon of water. Don’t use water on unsealed wood floors. Instead, combine 2 cups of vinegar with 1 tablespoon of olive or jojoba oil in a bucket. Spread a thin coat over the floor with a mop or soft cloth. Let it soak in for 20 minutes; dry mop to absorb excess liquid. Open windows to air out the vinegar smell.

 Mold + Mildew Spray
2 cups distilled white vinegar

Pour vinegar into a spray bottle and spray on infected area. The smell will dissipate in a few hours (open a window to speed up the process).

Helpful Hint For areas with persistent mold problems, use tea tree oil instead of vinegar, combining 2 drops of tea tree oil with 1 cup of water in a spray bottle. A natural antiseptic and fungicide, tea tree oil costs more than vinegar but will kill most types of mold and help prevent new growth.

From MarthaStewart.com:

Vinegar is a great all-purpose cleaner; use it straight for tough jobs, or dilute it with water. Tea-tree oil is a natural fungicide and can help disinfect surfaces — mix 2 teaspoons with 2 cups water (see Tub and Tile Cleaners for more information). To whiten stained tiles or grout, use a mixture of 1/2 cup hydrogen peroxide to 1 cup water.All of these solutions can be sprayed onto a surface, allowed to dry, then wiped with a damp cloth.

For a more abrasive cleaner, apply a paste of borax and water and use a scrub brush. Always rinse well and dry. Start with the methods listed above, if appropriate for the surface (vinegar may pit marble). If these options don’t work to your satisfaction and you opt for bleach, use the smallest amount possible in a well-ventilated area, and wear gloves. Never mix bleach with other cleaning products, such as ammonia, as that can create a dangerous chemical reaction

Tub and Tile

From MarthaStewart.com:

Vinegar works well on soap scum and mineral deposits, but rinse thoroughly, as it can corrode some fixtures and etch glaze on tiles. You can also try tea tree oil — 2 drops tea tree oil with 1 cup water — in a spray bottle. A natural antiseptic and fungicide, tea tree oil costs more than vinegar but will kill most types of mold and help prevent growth; as with all concentrated oils, it should be used with caution, as it can trigger allergic reactions if it comes into contact with skin. Pregnant women should consult a doctor before using it.

To prevent mildew on tiles and grout, wipe down the shower enclosure every time you use it (wash the towel every few days). Leave the shower door or curtain partly open to encourage air flow. Clean the bathtub once a week with warm water; a mildly abrasive, nonchlorine cleaner; and a cloth or sponge. (Never use steel wool, stiff brushes, or strongly abrasive pads, which can damage the tub surface.) Bathtub rings are usually the result of oily bath products or a poorly functioning drain, so be sure to keep the drain clog-free and to scrub with a little abrasive cleaner after you use a bath oil. People with allergies or sensitivities may like commercially available steam or steam-vapor cleaners (which can be used to clean many surfaces around the house). The steam loosens grime, which you then sponge off, and it also kills bacteria and viruses.